Start from the sample size
Fit is approved on one size, the sample size. Its measurements are the spec, and every other size is the spec plus or minus the grade. A change to the sample size's spec moves the whole run with it.
Grade rules
Each point of measure has its own grade rule: the step from one size to the next. Widths that follow the body grade most. Small details, such as a neck drop or a rib height, grade little or not at all.
A half measurement grades half of the body's step: a chest that grows 3 in round from one size to the next grades 1 1/2 in on a half measurement.
| Code | Point of measure | Step | S | M (sample) | L | XL | XXL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BLN-60 | Body length from HPS to hem | 1 | 26 1/2 | 27 1/2 | 28 1/2 | 29 1/2 | 30 1/2 |
| CHE-01 | Chest 1" below armhole | 1 1/2 | 19 3/4 | 21 1/4 | 22 3/4 | 24 1/4 | 25 3/4 |
| SHO-03 | Across shoulder | 3/4 | 17 3/4 | 18 1/2 | 19 1/4 | 20 | 20 3/4 |
| SLV-19 | Sleeve length | 1/4 | 7 5/8 | 7 7/8 | 8 1/8 | 8 3/8 | 8 5/8 |
| SLV-21 | Sleeve opening | 1/4 | 6 5/8 | 6 7/8 | 7 1/8 | 7 3/8 | 7 5/8 |
| SL3 | 3-point sleeve length | 5/8 | 16 3/4 | 17 3/8 | 18 | 18 5/8 | 19 1/4 |
| SWP | Bottom sweep | 1 1/2 | 19 3/4 | 21 1/4 | 22 3/4 | 24 1/4 | 25 3/4 |
Even steps, and where they change
Many runs grade evenly. Some use a larger step for the larger sizes, because bodies do not grow evenly. Whatever the rule, write it for each point and check every size still makes sense. A step that takes a measurement to zero or below at the end of the run is a wrong rule, and the Studio refuses it.
Size chart or graded spec
A size chart tells a customer which size to buy from their body measurements. A graded spec tells the factory the garment's measurements in every size. They are different tables: send the factory the graded spec, and publish the size chart.
Check the run
Before production, ask for a size set, one piece in each size or at least the smallest and largest, and measure each piece against its graded spec and tolerances. Most grading mistakes show at the ends of the run.
Units
Grade in the unit the pack is written in. The Studio stores every measurement in millimetres and prints inches to the nearest 1/8, so a step of 1 1/2 in is 38.1 mm and stays exact.
